Lake Como in Bloom

Today I caught a ride with my B&B hostess and 2 of her friends as they were on their way to a B&B convention. They spoke primarily in Italian and my hostess would give me updates on each new topic in English. They chatted primarily about flowers. I heard tuber, magnolia, rossa, bianca. At one point they all laughed heartily and then Annamaria explained. When her girlfriend--in the backseat--goes to the market, her husband reminds her, "we are going to the market for groceries not for flowers" to which Annamaria shared "my husband says the same thing to me!"

So this post is dedicated to all the flower lovers out there and those that support them.

A hedge of yellow Blooms on the hike up to my B&B in Mandello del Lario.

No flowers yet, but I think that will be wisteria when it blooms. Who wouldn't want to work on their jump shot?

Villa decorated with flowers Mandello del Lario.

A gigantic magnolia tree and a rhododendron at Villa Carlotta.

Oranges, camellias and snapdragons (I think) at Villa Carlotta. Bellagio is to the left across the lake and to the right is Villa Melzi.

Magnolia close up in Varenna.

Looking at the Pansies makes my missoltini a bit more palatable.

Flowers cascade out of drainage holes along the walkway by the water in Varenna, I promise.

 More camellias during a walk along the lake in Como.

Window boxes in Bellagio.

Postcards Wanted?

My dear friend Rachel has given me her own list of "adventure to dos" and if you know Rachel or read her blog rachelsaysso.blogspot.com you know the list is a winner, sure to inspire laughter.

On the list I'm supposed to ring a cow's bell in Switzerland, ask old couples holding hands their secret to love and send her a postcard from the first city I visit in Italy. Having recently conquered the Italian post office, which was hilarious, she should be getting her postcard soon.

And I thought: what a great idea Rachel (she's full of them)...

So if YOU would like a postcard from Europe email me your address and I will do my best to send one your way. Just a little "thank you" for reading along in my journey.

Cinque Terre

Yesterday was my designated Cinque Terre day, those 5 little cliff hugging towns along the northwest coast of Italy. But the weather and a train/bus strike tried to thwart my plans for some sightseeing. No boats were running due to the rough sea. So sad. All the buses stopped running just when I thought "well ok I'll go visit another town". A train worker was totally unhelpful.

The highlight of the morning: walking by a little Tabbacceri, a convenience store of sorts, just as my umbrella lost 3 more corners. I looked down to see umbrellas for sale. I must have had quite the look on my face because the shop owner laughed and then helped me pick out a new one. I'm calling this one The Silver Bullet. Because I think if I name it it will stick with me. You see, I'm on my 4th umbrella in 2 weeks. #1 lost #2 stolen #3 a lemon #4 The Silver Bullet.

So after a little regroup session I jumped on the train to Cinque Terre, or for me Due Terre because I was perfectly happy to hit 2 of the towns after the soggy events of the morning.

Riomaggiore

This is the second time in 2 days I have seen a full set of Snow White and the seven dwarves statues displayed outside a home. Someone please explain.

I really am quite speechless as I climb the stairs and get lost in the labyrinth of paths through this town. It seemed I was completely alone here at times and then WHAM I would hit a german tour group.

 

Vernazza

Check out the super secret boat passage. Argh!

That red flag means dangerous sea today.

I really did stand and gawk, weather permitting, quite a bit.

La Spezia, Italy

Leaving Bologna I resolved to only eat vegetables and fish for the following week to off-set all the gelato and carb filled meals I enjoyed there. Arriving in La Spezia (the gateway to Cinque Terre), my airbnb.com host recommended a really good budget friendly fish place right on the dock: Dai Pescatori. Perfect. Right in my meal plan, that is until I see everyone ordering Frittura--a plate of fried calamari and prawns. So I can't resist and I'll tell you in a bit why I don't feel one bit guilty.

You may also notice 2 plates and 2 waters. The lady I paid also looked confused when I said it was for one. I needed extra water and I just had to try the other dish, with fish of course, and potatoes and olives and pine nuts.

 I polished off the Frittura. Those prawns were the best I have ever had. The whole prawn (minus the eyes) including legs and shell was sweet with a salty crunchy exterior. My mouth is watering just thinking about it. I completely understand why the line out the door is 20 people deep. And just a couple of bites of the other dish was enough. Good, but had to go with the Frittura.

And this is why I don't feel guilty.

I found a little trail and thought I would wander a bit....

Straight up a gazillion flights of stairs.

I had no idea where it was going

but I was enjoying the sunshine and shedding the winter layers one by one.

I passed a few other hikers. One in particular, an Italian woman coming up the stairs. She had a torrent of words for that hike up. I said "non parlo Italiano" and smiled. Then she said a whole lot more, in Italian, pointed down, pointed up, and said "capiche"? Gave several sighs, waved her hands and said "capiche"? I smiled, nodded my head. I knew exactly what she meant. That trail kicked my behind too.

Pretty awesome view. Yep I earned my dinner tonight.

La Spezia has a lovely town center. I love the architecture. And, except for the herd that was expelled from a cruise ship for a couple hours I had a relaxing boardwalk stroll.

Happy Easter from Bologna

I am truly grateful for the reason we celebrate Easter. The Ultimate Gift.

Today I'm sharing pictures from my walk to and from church and the miracle of sunshine when the forecast was "more rain".

Look close--that guy is tightrope walking in the park.

And for one more bit of sunshine...a little bread pudding I managed to make from my Easter Colombo (dove shaped cake).

Happy Easter Everyone!

I HEART Verona

This is the Italy I've been dreaming of and didn't know it.

Julie, a new friend in Bologna, recommended Verona saying "it is a very romantic city". Thinking "I can use a little more romance in my life" I booked my train reservation and off I went.

My relationship with Verona started out with uncertainty, got a little rocky and blossomed into something beautiful.

The uncertainty is par for every new city with me. I get off the train, hopefully heading in the right direction, thinking "well this isn't what I expected", but let's see. Here newer buildings, with straighter lines and the kind of dirt that just looks dirty rather than patina'd, greet you. But it's promising because its green!

I hit rough territory at the castle. It has ramparts and a moat. I'm attracted to the mystery. But the museum guards were uber protective staring me down. Really?! 5 of you need to follow me around from room to room? Kinda creepy. Then back at the enrance my umbrella is gone.

Me and my hood forge onward. We've seen worse.

Taking a chance, I go into a restaurant for lunch, Enocibus. I still get butterflies when going into a restaurant in a foreign country. There's a bit of commitment required. Will servers and other diners glare at the tourist for the duration or will the dialogue be welcoming. Yay, it was the latter! A little awkward at first as we were both trying to understand each other but the husband and wife duo were such sweethearts. I think they gave me a discount. And the polenta with funghi is warming on this drizzly day.

So with a spring in my step and some food in my tummy I see this

And this

And stores that look like this

And oh my gosh I can't believe I'm seeing this

Then a lovely girl at Stefanel dresses me up like this. And I want it all!

But, it's a little out of budget, so what does a girl do to lift the spirits...buy a handbag and stop in the very next chocolate store she sees: Lavazzoler Chocolat.

I make the obligatory visit to Romeo and Juliet's balcony which has nothing to do with the original. And wading through the umbrellas catch couples in the act of declaring their love here.

But I still have 1 more highlight on my map. So heading towards the river through narrow cobble stone streets with dainty scrollwork balconies dripping with greenery and flowers I emerge to see this.

And I'm so amazed I have to share another angle.

Across the bridge up the winding stairs to catch these glimpses of Verona.

Then, like a twitterpated girl who has stayed out past curfew I drag myself away and walk/run back to the train station, boarding 1 minute before departure. I pull out my chocolates; the recommendation from the chocolate shop standing out from the rest: hearts.